Unforgettable day snorkeling at Kicker Rock, near the island of San Cristobal, Galapagos



Kicker Rock from boat

Every once in a while you get to do something so remarkable that it’s forever etched in your memory.  We had such a day several years ago when we were in the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania and saw 32 lions, 8 cheetahs and even got a glimpse of the rare black rhino.

And Kicker Rock provided another such day.  We began with a long walk on a beautiful beach on the northwest side of San Cristobal Island, but it was snorkeling at Kicker Rock, about a 30 minute boat ride away that blew our minds. 

marine turtle swimming just below surface

First, along came a gigantic marine turtle, swimming about 30 feet below us in the perfectly clear water.  We followed him until he got tired of us and dove deeper, out of sight.  These turtles use their large front fins to pull them through the water, surprisingly easy for an animal so big.  That was thrill enough, but much more followed. 

Kicker Rock channel full of rays, sharks and fish

A large sliver of Kicker Rock is separated from the main rock by a channel about 100 feet wide and a quarter of a mile long.  As we swam into the channel, I saw a huge ray below me, the first I’ve ever seen in the deep ocean.  Next, we saw 4 spotted rays swimming in formation like the Blue Angels.  These are gorgeous creatures, about 6 feet across with beautiful white spots all over their blue-black bodies.  The rays were within touching distance of us, completely unconcerned by all the excited voices and flopping fins just above them.  They are incredibly graceful as they move through the water slowly and rhythmically moving their “wings”.

In the middle of the channel, we found our first shark, about 15 feet long.  Within a few minutes, we saw sharks everywhere swimming below us.  In one school, I counted 30 sharks ranging from medium-sized to very large.  They, too, ignored us as they swam back and forth, seemingly just enjoying the day.  They were there for the fish, I’m sure, because I’ve never seen so many fish in one place nor so many varieties of fish.  They were like clouds they were so thick.  An easy feast for a hungry shark.

Kicker Rock is volcanic, pushed up from the ocean floor millions of years ago.  The ocean depth around it is about 1200 feet, so far below our ability to see.  All the fish and animals we saw seemed to be suspended in twilight high above the bottom of the ocean.  The depth provides ample room for multiple layers of fish from surface feeders to deep water fish.  And for an unforgettable afternoon of snorkeling.  Wish I'd had an underwater camera.