Sunday, June 28, 2015

Floreanna--a birder's paradise


 
Floreana flamingos in lagoon

Our second day out, we left the Majestic early to go to a nearby beach.  This was Post Office Bay, so named because for centuries sailors had stopped at Fioreana Island to get fresh water and meat, both hard to find in the Galapagos.  They set up a barrel just off the beach where lonesome sailors could send letters home.  Then, the next ship heading back to Europe would pick up the letters and mail them upon their return to their European country.  In this way, a postal service of sorts was set up in the Galapagos, known to everyone who sailed the Pacific.

our guide, Javier at Post Office Bay post office
Floreana has a lovely lagoon that is home to several dozen flamingos.  While we were there, the birds were slurping water, siphoning off the tiny shrimp and other small fish by flapping their lips rapidly and pushing their catch through teeth, much like whales do when they’re eating fish.

The island is also home to marine iguanas, lava lizards, selly lightfooted crabs and many birds that come here to reproduce.  We saw hundreds of blue-footed boobies—quite beautiful with their truly blue feet and beaks and white and black bodies. 
blue footed boobies

Wave albatross nest on Floreana.  We saw a mother feeding her chick who was frantic for food even though he was almost as large as his mother.  He was still too young to fly, but will need to learn fast because all the adults will be headed out to sea shortly.

wave albatross mother feeding frantic baby
Floreana is one of the few populated islands and has some very interesting stories connected with it.  In one case, an obstreperous sailor was deposited here by the ship’s captain because he caused too much trouble.  Word got around so no boats that stopped at Floreana would take the hapless guy home.  Eventually, after 2 years, he stole a sailboat, captured some black sailors to sail it and took off for home.  He survived the trip, but no one else.

One pregnant woman came ashore to give birth.  She lived on Floreana with her daughter and a second child.  Floreana is the name of her daughter, who stayed on the island and eventually started a tour company that still owns the Tip Top boats.

Like most of the islands, it is covered with low scrubby bushes filled with thorns.  A great place for wildlife, but not so for humans.  Today, though, a handful of people live on the island.
frigate bird coming in for landing in nest
Floreana bay and beach

Selly Light-footed crabs are everywhere
ghost crab scurrying into sand hole
 

 

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