Isabella--largest island in the Galapagos

Isabella near sunset



Land Iguana

The Wolf volcano on Isabella Island is still erupting, though less actively than a month ago when rivers of lava flowed down its southeast flanks.  Nevertheless, we could see surges of red through the clouds surrounding the crater that told us Wolf is still erupting.  We anchored at Tagus Bay on Isabella in time for a 6 a.m. hike to a ridgetop where we could see the huge lava flows filling a valley from earlier eruptions.  Quite a spectacular sight with the black lava flowing to the turquoise ocean and 3 volcanos in the background.  We were glad for the early start since it is quite hot in the Galapagos even though this is the cooler time of year here.

2 flightless cormorants

We went out in the pangas to see if we could find birds, penguins, sea lions and turtles.  Flightless cormorants—a species of cormorant that evolved to have small wings, not large enough to fly, and large webbed feet, perfect for swimming, diving and hopping around the cliffs—live and nest here.  We saw many of them grooming themselves on the cliffs.  

Galapagos penguin finally on top ofrock

Later, while snorkeling, we watched 2 cormorants diving for fish.  The bird turns itself into a little rocket, diving down very deep from its swimming position on the water.  While underwater, it stays in a very aerodynamic pose and searches in and around rocks and crevices for small fish.  When it needs air, it uses its large feet to propel itself rapidly to the surface.  Don was watching one cormorant as it fished about 40 feet below.  He was right where the cormorant wanted to surface, so she did, right between is hand and his chin, whereupon she settled happily on the water until she was ready to dive again.

marine iguana with crabs

On this snorkel outing, we found 6 marine turtles feeding on the algae on the rocks and swimming in the deep water.  They move so easily despite their large size and weight, seeming to be suspended in the water before they use their large front flippers to move on.

blue footed booby high on cliff

Our afternoon jaunt took us a short distance inland to land iguana territory.  We saw 6 or 7 huge  iguanas, with their nobby yellow skins.  On the beach, a Galapagos penguin was swimming, trying to get a wave to lift her high enough to get on a rock she fancied, about 3 feet above the surface of the water.  She swam round and round and finally got the boost she needed and scrambled to the top of the jagged rock.  These penguins are very small, much smaller than any penguins we have seen at the southern tip of South America or in Antarctica.  This species is the farthest north that penguins live as they are usually cold water birds and the water temperature here is in the low 70’s right now.

pelican enjoying a moment of contemplation