Argentine Patagonia--3 days in Bariloche

 

Lago Nahuel Huapi from Cerro Llao Llao

Patagonia is a huge region that includes all of Southern Chile and Southern Argentina.  The Andes fill the center of the region along with large lakes and fast-flowing rivers.  The hiking and fishing are superb throughout the region, though the winds are often very powerful.  We’ve hiked in Torres del Paine, in the far south of Chile, and many places in Argentine Patagonia, from Bariloche to El Calafate, El Chalten and Ushuaia—all wonderful places to visit and hike and all exceptionally beautiful.

Bariloche's municipal building

This trip, we spent 3 days in Bariloche and hiked one day when the sun came out for a while and the air was clear and brisk.  We hiked to Cerro Llao Llao, high above Lake Nahuel Huapi, with magnificent views across 2 arms of the Lake, surrounded by the Andes.  On our way down a different trail, we were turned back by a large area of downed trees, upended by the high winds of the last few weeks. 

view from Cerro Llao Llao

Our first full day, we had planned to hike, but it was snowy and very windy and cold, so we climbed into our van with an excellent guide, Elisabeth, and toured the town of Bariloche, about 120,000 residents.  With plenty of time, we decided to continue on to the ski area, half an hour out of town and the largest in South America, which hosts 20,000 skiers a day (that would be a very big day for Colorado ski areas).  It was chilly and a bit snowy, but fun to see.  The village badly needs investment to update the base area, lifts and lodging.  It reminded us of Arapahoe Basin in the early ‘90’s before it was significantly upgraded.  The area covers several mountains, much like Breckenridge, with long runs below very jagged peaks.

eagle near Cerro Llao Llao




Bariloche's ski area on a snowy spring day

Our hotel, El Casco Art Hotel, is owned by a gallery owner from Buenos Aires who represents many of Argentina's best artists.  Each hotel room is dedicated to one artist and has his or her paintings on the walls.  Sculptures decorate the public and outside spaces of the hotel.  It's really a treat to live with these artists for several days (and all artwork is for sale, of course).



resident duck

duck sculpture



bunnies on the lawn

Our trip home was a bit of an adventure.  I checked on our 2 flights out of Bariloche early in the morning and saw that all the morning flights had been canceled.  A bit of a problem since most of us had our flights home from Buenos Aires late the same evening.  Aerolineas Argentinas would not help us by phone, so we went to the small airport, swarming with stranded travelers.  The airport had been closed the night before because of a few inches of snow.  But the runways were completely clear and the snow was melting fast.  Imagine closing DIA under such minimal circumstances. 
I parked myself with our guide at a counter staffed by an agent our guide knew well.  We sweet-talked her into taking our boarding passes, pleading our need to make our connecting flight home (United had almost no availability for the next 2 days).  Finally, after 3 hours, a plane from another airline landed and seemed not to have a full flight to Buenos Aires, so Aerolineas grabbed the plane.  After boarding all the passengers from a canceled flight the night before, including a large group of young teens who had slept in the airport (they and their chaperones looked a bit bleary), this lovely Aerolineas agent gave us the last 11 seats.  Watching her print all our boarding passes certainly made my day.  Our luggage stayed behind in Bariloche, but Aerolineas delivered it all to our home yesterday, only 2 days late!  I was impressed. 

Andes and lake from Cerro Llao Llao