Crossing the Andes by boat and bus (boat is better)

Mountains and clouds during crossing of Lago Todos los Santos



We just finished our third (Don’s fourth) crossing of the Andes from Puerto Varas, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina.  Our first crossing was blessed by sunshine and blue sky, though it was pretty cold.  The last two were made in the rain and mist, though last week, we did get a chance to see the magnificent volcano, Osorno, looming before us across the first lake.

Osorno from Puerto Varas on sunny day
 

 

The crossing requires a bus ride to the first lake dock, two buses between lakes in the middle of the trip (one only 10 minutes), and a final ride to a hotel in Bariloche.  Three boats take you across the beautiful, deep lakes surrounded by the Andes, with a lunch stop in the middle at a remote hotel overlooking one of the lakes.  It’s a 12 hour day and one you’ll never forget because of the beauty of the mountains and lakes you cross.

Osorno from Puerto Varas on a cloudy day

 

On our way to our first lake crossing we stopped at Petrohue Falls, rushing with water this year, far more than we’ve seen before.  From there we continued to Todos los Santos Lake for our first and longest sail on a large, comfortable catamaran.  When the weather is good, you get spectacular views of the Osorno and Calbuco volcanos.  On this trip, we could take our photos of Osorno in between rain squalls.  The clouds added to the drama of the setting.


Osorno from lake on sunny day

and in the clouds

Some people stay overnight at a hotel at Peulla, the terminus of the Todos lost Santos crossing.  We had lunch and continued on our way by bus to the next lake, about 1 ½ hours, to Lake Frias, only a 20 minute boat ride, before boarding a bus for the short ride to Lake Nahuel Huapi in Argentina.  You clear Chilean customs in Peulla and Argentine immigration and customs upon arrival at Lake Frias.  The customs officers were very pleasant and, as we were the last boat of the day, rode back to Bariloche with us on our boats and buses.  Quite a long trek to stamp the passports of about 100 passengers, though I’m sure it is much busier in the high season.


Petrohue Falls

Lake Nahuel Huapi is incredibly beautiful.  Our hotel near Bariloche, El Casco Art Hotel (highly recommended for its location, original art by renowned Argentinian artists in each room, and beautiful rooms with stunning views of the lake), is right on the lake about 11 km outside of Bariloche.  We dragged in at 8:30 pm, very happy to slouch into our comfortable rooms and even happier to enjoy some excellent Argentine wine.

Lago Nahuel Huapi from El Casco Art Hotel