Tea with a family of potters in Tashkent

pottery wall

Another great treat--going to a potters' workshop and spending an hour with father and son over tea, talking about their work and their travels around Uzbekistan.  We will plan a visit with them when we come back next year.

This family has been potting for 6 generations.  Our guide was a son of the current master potter and grandson of a famous potter.  He told us about their designs and work in considerable detail.  The grandfather worked during the Soviet era (I think modern Uzbekistan history is divided into the Soviet era and the independence era--today, since 1991), so he couldn't have a private business and worked in a very tiny studio in order to escape notice.

Nonetheless, he became a recognized potter, testing new designs, colors and techniques and teaching his son and grandson.  He also kept detailed records of everything he did so that now the studio can replicate his designs, colors, glazes and methods of firing the pots.  He drew his inspiration from traditional patterns and crafts and created absolutely beautiful pottery.

Now, father and son work in a large studio.  Each has his space and each tries out different designs, colors and techniques.  But, more than that, they teach 2 classes, one of kindergartners and one of 15 year olds, twice a week for a school year.  Their goal is to train the next generation of potters. They have 10 students in each class, so I imagine it is a bit chaotic, particularly with the kindergartners.  But, we saw some of the enchanting things the children had made, including a 3-legged elephant created by a 6 year old, with pink and blue spots all over it.

The family takes one weekend a month and travels all over Uzbekistan, staying in small villages to meet local craftsmen.  They stay in tea houses or mosques or homes and gather people's stories and village legends. 

I asked the father to tell us one of his stories, translated by his son.  He told us about a village where 70% of the children are born with their baby teeth already in.  So, all these children are named Wolf.  When they lose these baby teeth, they get another name added to Wolf.  The villagers are all blond with blue eyes, very unusual in Uzbekistan.  They believe they are descended from Alexander the Great's Greek army, which is probably the case since Alexander's empire extended this far east and was governed by his sons and generals for a century.  The villagers want to keep this distinction (though there are other Uzbeks with similar coloring), so if a girl marries outside the village, her husband must come to the village to live, which is the reverse of what usually happens upon marriage.

tea with father and son

Because their pottery is in demand around the world, they travel a lot to Europe and the US.  They also, of course, have a pretty showroom in their large studio/home, which is built around a peaceful, cool garden.  The garden has a small stream running through it and fruit trees for fruit and shade.  The father has such kind eyes and so clearly loves learning more about other people and their lives.  The son speaks perfect English and is very proud of what his family has accomplished.

We bought a number of small plates from them and look forward to coming back next year.