More on Bukhara

carved plaster screen, Summer Palace

The old Jewish Quarter of Bukhara is mostly what is left of the winding alleyways of the oldest part of the city.  Most of the Jews left in the 1970's when the Soviet Union allowed them to leave the country, heading to Israel and the United States.  They left literally everything behind as they were not allowed to take their possessions with them.

Local families bought the Jewish families' homes.  One of our days in Bukhara, we went for lunch at one such home, now owned by an Uzbek family who, fortunately, love antiques.  They have restored the home and kept on display the many beautiful pieces of porcelain, old carpets and embroidery the former owners had collected.  These homes have dozens of small niches carved into plaster or wood walls for displaying their family treasures.  This home had its niches full of the Jewish families favorite things.


lunch in family courtyard

This family also, as one would expect, sells carpets and suzani, the lovely embroidery that is a principle craft here.  Since their prices were very good and the craftsmanship of high quality, we bought several pieces of suzani.  Our hostess was quite pleased, so took us to her family's antique gallery where much is not for sale because this is truly a museum, though a very private one.  Her husband is a big collector of antique clothing, embroidery, metalwork, jewelry, carpets and weapons (swords, knives and so on).  She said, "My husband has his eye on antiques more than on his wife."  He does, indeed, have a large and very impressive collection.

our luncheon hostess

"family" beds by Bukhara pond

Summer days in Bukhara are very hot, but early mornings and evenings are quite pleasant.  Families have large "family" beds outside either in their courtyards or even beside one of the many ponds that dot the city.  The family will put a carpet on the bed and sit there in the evening drinking tea and talking among themselves or to their neighbors.  Some will sleep outside to enjoy the cool nights.

Summer Palace reception room

Just outside the city is the last kahn's summer palace.  While much of it was destroyed in the Soviet period, part of the building and the unkempt, but beautiful, rose gardens and shaded walks remain.  Inside the reception hall, the fine plasterwork and niche paintings are well-preserved.  The complex is under fitful renovation.  Some of the rooms are intact, with period furniture, though not the original, but the curators have put large, unsightly display cases full of porcelain right in the middle of the rooms, so you can't really see how it used to be. 

painted niche, Summer Palace

tiled panel, Summer Palace

Finally, this minaret, with its unique and varied brickwork, is not attached to the mosque, which is unusual in Bukhara.  Most minarets are part of the support system for the mosque itself.  For this minaret, the architect built a bridge from the mosque to the minaret so the muezzin could more easily get to the many steps he had to climb 5 times a day to chant the call to prayer.