Samarkand's central square--the Regestan

The Regestan, Samarkand's central square with 3 madrassas

in the madrassa's courtyard

 The central square of Samarkand is the Regestan, a huge, recently rebuilt square with long, shallow marble steps leading to it and designed for people to sit on when enjoying one of the many concerts held here.  Unfortunately, they are of white marble and so slippery when it rains that they’ve had to be closed to the public.

This is where the President brings all foreign dignitaries when they come to Samarkand, so he has made it a grand place, worthy of Uzbekistan history.  Today, the entire country is preparing for Independence Day tomorrow, Sept. 1, so the roses are in full bloom, the streets have been swept and the parks are full of people. 

inside a madrassa's mosque

We walked up a pretty pedestrian street close to our hotel until we came to a police checkpoint.  Women all dressed up and men in T-shirts and jeans were waiting to be cleared through the checkpoint.  I think there is going to be a big street party tonight and people are excited.  Meanwhile, the police are in control of how the evening unfolds and who participates.

tiled dome of the mosque

To the Regestan again--surrounding the square are three 16th century madrassas.  All have been rebuilt with beautiful craftsmanship and now house shops rather than students.  These massive structures were heavily damaged by earthquakes and neglect.  Initially, UNESCO had provided money to stabilize the structures, but Uzbekistan wanted to restore them to their former magnificence.  Since UNESCO’s policy is to preserve monuments as they are, not as they were, Uzbekistan declined more UNESCO funds and has brought in skilled artisans to reconstruct its monuments, which they have done very well.  We looked at photos of the madrassas as they were before the restoration began.  I think I’m happy to be able to see what they were during their heyday.

A madrassa gate