Ashgabat--a monument to a president

Ashgabat at sunset

Ashgabat is a blazing white city of 700,000 people in a country of nearly 7 million.  Flush with oil and gas dollars, the post-Soviet president, who created a cult of personal omnipotence and spiritual power (until he died just like any other human), built the newer part of the city out of white marble, imported from around the world.  In the intense sunshine and heat, you can't get by without sunglasses as the marble reflects heat and brilliance. 

The city is all white except for the many parks and the trees lining the main streets and the gold domes marking the President's office.  The older part of the city, which was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1948, was rebuilt during Soviet times, with concrete buildings of ocher and soft pink.  This color is welcome in the mass of this otherwise monochromatic city.

We went to the monument marking Turkmenistan's independence after the fall of the Soviet Union.  This is a "must" stop for brides and grooms before their weddings, which often take place in the huge and gaudy Palace of Happiness, on a rise above the city.



Embroidered traditional bridal gown

The brides wear gorgeously embroidered traditional dresses during their procession from their parents' home to the home of the groom's parents.  Later, they change to Western-style white wedding gowns for a second ceremony and celebratory dinner.

Bride and groom in traditional bridal costume



The bride's family does not go with her once she leaves their home.  They will rejoin the festivities at the Western ceremony later in the day.  But, she has moved to her husband's family, so the traditional ceremony will only include them.

 

Musicians played as the couple emerged from their wedding car, men and women danced, and children ran about cheering.

 

 

 



 

 



 

Turkmenistan is a Muslim country, but quite secular.  During the Soviet period, there were no mosques because atheism was the law of the land for Communists.  When the USSR collapsed, Turkey built a small version of Istanbul's spectacular Blue Mosque in the center of Ashgabat, minus the magnificent blue tiles of the original, but beautiful nonetheless.


Turkey built a replica of its Blue Mosque in Ashgabat



The independence monument, a central point in the city 

 



The economy and politics of Turkmenistan are fascinating.  Presidents serve a maximum of 2 terms, but are then "elected for life".  People we talked to praised what the Soviets did for them--primarily giving women freedom from seclusion in their homes, the opportunity to go to school and get jobs, and a focus on education for everyone for at least 10 years (though the education was based on communist history, economics and ideology).

 

They told us that the current president has expanded educational opportunity and begun to build a solid health care system.  Because of their oil and gas production, much of their daily needs are free.  Until Aug. 1, 2014, gasoline was free.  Now the people pay a small amount to fill their tanks.  All power and water are free, as is education, but not health care.  Before the end of the Soviet era, people were given their apartments free of charge.  Today, the apartments in the shiny new marble buildings cost upward of $200,000 for a 2 bedroom unit.  Our guide lives in a Soviet-era building in an apartment that was given to her by the government.  She pays $10 per month to live there.  Her children and heirs will be able to live there for $10 per month as well.  One wonders how all this largesse will be supported when the oil and gas revenues run out eventually.

 

Water is another big issue.  The Soviets built a canal from the Amu Darya River through the central desert, turning it into a vast farming area that produces cotton, grain, fruits and vegetables.  That was all OK when the Central Asian republics were part of the Soviet Union and shared resources, but today it is a source of friction, particularly between Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan since the latter claims part of the water that flows through the canal into Turkmenistan.   No one seems to be worried about water right now.  Another potential crisis for the future.