Rabat, capital of Morocco

 

12th century Hassan Tower

Most tourists don’t take the time to see Rabat, preferring Fez, Marrakech and Chefchaouen, all worthy destinations.  But, Rabat is a beautiful city on the Atlantic Ocean and the capital of Morocco.  It’s also, obviously, home to the US Embassy in Morocco, which we visited for a briefing from two embassy officials to learn more about Morocco’s politics, economy and culture.

 

Atlantic Ocean from Kasbah

We visit US embassies and consulates when possible because we’ve found US Foreign Service officers to be well-informed, experienced and thoughtful about the countries where they serve.  Americans are fortunate to have such knowledgeable and committed people representing us around the world.  The embassy in Rabat has 300 employees, 100 of whom are Americans, and houses 12 government agencies.

Royal Palace

 First stop in Rabat was the enormous Royal Palace.   Right next door is the Prime Minister’s office, along   with other government offices inside the beautifully   landscaped palace compound.  The mausoleum of   Mohammed V is closed right now as a result of Covid, but I’ve been inside before to walk around the balcony gazing at the white tomb below.  It sits right next to the ruins of a twelfth century mosque and the Hassan Tower, with views over the river.

Mohammed V Mausoleim

One of the prettiest parts of Rabat is the Kasbah of the Udayas (pirates), whitewashed buildings lining narrow alleyways that lead to a point overlooking the Atlantic.  Here, pirates brought their booty, including slaves hauled off in chains from the ships the pirates  captured.  Foreign diplomats were forced to live in the Kasbah, where they could be persuaded to pay hefty ransoms to recover their enslaved countrymen.

artist's display in the souk

 
 The souk, the market in the old medina of Rabat, is   large, packed with shops and goods, and very busy   late into the night.  Our hotel was in the heart of the   medina, so a great place to begin a walk through the   crowded marketplace.

 Moroccans are proud to have been the first country   to recognize the fledgling United States in 1787   (though France also claims that honor).  It is the   longest diplomatic relationship the US has had in the   world.  Morocco is also an important military   partner and is the only country in Africa having a   free trade agreement with the US.  Whereas public approval of America is abysmal in most of Africa and the Middle East, thanks to the Iraq War, about 70% of Moroccans approve of the US.

Kasbah of the Udayas

The most important foreign policy issue for Morocco is the Western Sahara, which they claim and which also has a liberation movement, the Polisario Front.  Morocco is very willing to use its power against any country that steps out of line with regard to its claim to the Western Sahara, using its control of African migration to Europe as its cudgel.  When Spain let the leader of the Polisario into the country for medical treatment, Morocco removed its security protection from the Spanish enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla, on its northern coast, allowing 10,000 migrants to enter these cities.  Spain kicked out the Polisario leader immediately and fired its foreign minister.

blue door in the medina

 The king is very popular in Morocco.  People we talked to told us   that Moroccans trust the king much more than the government   headed by the Prime Minister.  The King is the ultimate authority   on everything, but particularly is the head of the military and the   supreme authority on religion.  He also controls foreign policy and   national security.  The monarchy does not like criticism, so there is   little freedom of the press and limited freedom of speech.   Most   journalists covering Morocco do so from outside the country since   journalists critical of the King can be jailed.

 Storks and cats fill the skies and streets of Rabat, and, in the case   of cats, all other Moroccan cities as well.  The storks build huge   nests on towers and minarets, some weighing 500 pounds.  Cats   reproduce with great regularity, so there are kittens, pregnant   females and unneutered males everywhere, all very friendly and   most looking reasonably well cared-for.  Though they don't   usually have families, they are looked after by the people in their   neighborhoods.

kitten waiting for its pet

Doors in Morocco are beautiful, painted and carved.  Homes are generally behind high walls in the medina, with a decorated door that opens into a courtyard, often with a fountain or pool and potted plants.  The riads, where we stayed, are charming hotels created from old palaces.

 

courtyard of our riad