The Renaissance Town of Sibiu, Romania

Sibiu's main square at dusk

Sibiu, Romania fortified its walls and launched its unique culture during the Renaissance.  Without significant natural barriers, a mix of conquerors, from the Turks to the Hungarians to the Austrians to the Russians, flowed across the region, bringing a mix of cultures and religions to the region.  All these influences show themselves in modern Sibiu, a charming city that sees itself more as Transylvanian than Romanian and as a cultural center for both Transylvania and Romania.

City Hall from the main square

Ethnicity and religion (Roman Catholic, Romanian Orthodox and Protestant) are clearly at the top of the mind in Sibiu, and elsewhere in Transylvania.  Saxons (Germans) moved into the area centuries ago, bringing Roman Catholicism and building fortified churches in hill towns to protect themselves from Turkish onslaughts.  After the Reformation, they switched to being Lutherans and Calvinists and transformed many of the Catholic churches and cathedrals into Protestant houses of worship.  They came later as well at the invitation of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which also, of course, brought Hungarians to the region.  The Roma came from farther east, India, while the Romanians are native to the region, descendants of Romanians and Dacians, and speaking a romance language.  

abandoned Lower Town house

During the Communist era, which ended only in 1989 with the ouster and execution of the hated,  25-year dictator, Ceaucescu, Saxons (Germans) were encouraged to move to Germany, with Germany paying a fee for each of the 250,000 Germans who chose to leave the home their families had known since the Middle Ages.  They left behind their homes and businesses.  Only about 12,000 Saxons remain in Transylvania today.  Because the Ceaucescu regime required the wandering Roma to settle in one place for at least part of the year, many Roma moved into the homes vacated by Germans who had moved to Germany.

After Romania joined the European Union, between 4 and 5 million Romanians hit the road, enjoying the freedom of movement and the good jobs the EU provided.  Villages and towns were depopulated, a brain drain of monumental proportions, with a massive impact on the country.

Protestant (formerly Catholic) cathedral

Our guides talk about the low literacy rate in Romania, telling us that about 40% of children, many Roma, do not go to school and that the quality of education is very low.  This, of course, is devastating to a country that desperately needs its talents to be recognized and developed.

Sibiu seems to be a cultural oasis, with many festivals, a focus on art and music, museums and a university.  The Upper Town of the old part of the city has a huge public square ringed by 400-year-old guild houses, now mostly restored and privately owned, a beautiful smaller square, cobblestone streets and lots of activity.  The Lower Town, which spreads into the Communist era concrete blocks of apartments and factories, still mostly needs to be restored.  But, it, too, has shops, restaurants, a large market piled with all kinds of fresh produce and lots of people.

guild house eyes

Sibiu, like most European cities of the Medieval era, was organized around guilds, the trade organizations that set up the process for achieving the necessary skills to practice a trade.  They also were responsible for providing the city’s defenses, with each guild required to build and maintain sections of the wall, a tower, and armed soldiers.  Guild houses, now owned by private families, surround the 2 large squares.  They have unique dormer windows in their attics that look like eyes peering down on the activity below.

guild houses

Sibiu's remaining Medieval wall and tower

Later, when Sibiu became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the central government set up a standing army, provided governance and defense, and set up a system of taxation to pay for it all.  The guilds quickly declined in relevance and eventually disappeared.

opera singer performing in City Hall

We were lucky to be in the town during an opera festival.  Several opera companies were about to perform a series of operas.  But, meanwhile, small groups of the artists performed around the city, free for anyone who wanted to listen.  We happened to be in the atrium of the City Hall at the right moment to hear 3 arias performed by members of one company.  So beautiful.  When there are other cultural events, artists perform all over the city, available for locals and tourists alike.  It is a charming tradition.