Wednesday, April 25, 2018

Roman villas are "must" visits

animals walking through water--Villa Romana del Tellaro
There are 2 Roman villas we've visited on our last 2 trips to Sicily.  One, Villa Romana del Casale, is well-known, large, full of tourists, and worth every minute you spend there.  The second I'd never heard of, Villa Romana del Tellaro, near the tiny fishing village of Marzamemi (also a lovely visit) on the southeast coast of Sicily.  This is well worth visiting, with free entry, no one there but you, and beautiful mosaics (which are the attraction of both villas).
carrying captured African birds onto boat, Villa Romana del Casale
I'll start with Villa Tellaro since it is rarely visited.  Until 30 years ago, the villa lay underneath a farm.  Then, the farmer discovered bits of mosaics, did a little sleuthing, and uncovered this magnificent villa.  Unfortunately, he started to sell the artifacts he found, which is illegal, so he landed in jail, but he showed the archaeological world a masterpiece.  The villa was opened to the public 10 years ago.  It's mosaics are under cover, but not thoroughly protected, which is too bad.  Hopefully, that will change as more people discover this beautiful spot.  There are 5 or 6 rooms whose mosaic floors are on display, showing us mythical creatures and people and wild animals as well as beautiful geometric patterns.
horses with groomsmen, Villa Romana del Tellaro
Villa Tallero is near the Vendicari Nature Reserve (more on that in another blog) and the fishing town of Marzamemi.  Both deserve a visit if you have time.  Marzamemi's fishermen's cottages have become shops and restaurants as the fishing industry died and tourism took over.  It is colorful and charming and has delicious local products for sale in a number of shops.
Roman family in their villa, Villa Romana del Casale
Villa Romana del Casale is a tourist mecca.  It's a very large villa filled with spectacular mosaic floors depicting so much of the lives of a wealthy Roman family.  One large room is covered with scenes of African animals, showing their capture and transport to Italy via boat.  So sad for the animals and so wonderful for history that we have this incredible portrayal of Roman life. 
floor of child's room, Villa Romana del Casale
Mosaics in other rooms show whimsical scenes for children, families in their daily activities, and, in a very unusual display, bikini-garbed women playing sports and dancing.  Many rooms have mosaic floors full of medallions showing the animals that captivated Roman hunters and nobles. 
Marzamemi restaurant outside fisherman's cottage
woman in bikini, Villa Romana del Casale
I've seen many Roman ruins, including the fabulous mosaics at Ephesus in Turkey and Volubilis in Morocco.  These mosaics in Sicily match the quality of any I've seen anywhere and have a remarkable variety of people, animals and scenes.   They are worth the crowds, though, if you go later in the day, you'll have a more peaceful experience.  Just make sure you're there when there is enough daylight to see the beauty of the mosaics.
wild boar at Villa Romana del Casale

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