Iran's gorgeous Bam Citadel

Bam Citadel at sunset

Bam’s citadel is stunning.  Badly damaged in the earthquake of 2003 that destroyed virtually the entire city, it is nonetheless another “must see” site in Iran.  It is the largest mud brick structure in the world and is another of Iran’s gorgeous UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  In fact, after the earthquake, UNESCO designated the whole city as a World Heritage Site.

earthquake damage at Bam Citadel

The citadel is being partially restored and stabilized, so parts of it are not open to tourists.  The sheer size and magnificence of the structure make it well worth a visit to Bam, particularly as the sun gets low in the evening and it glows as only a mud brick structure can.  Thinking the citadel was destroyed completely, few tourists visit Bam now, but they are making a big mistake.  They visit Royen Citadel, instead, which we did today as well, but it doesn’t compare to the Bam Citadel.

Royen is about 10% the size of Bam, so that alone makes it much less interesting.  Both citadels had houses for common people, government and royal areas and housing, soldiers’ quarters, wells and water storage and shops inside the thick walls.  The entire population could see protection within both citadels when the towns came under attack. 

the soldier's and government quarters from below

The area of the Bam Citadel has been occupied since 4000 BC.  The oldest parts of the current structure date back 1600 years, but most of the construction happened from the 16^th to 19^th centuries.

In 2003, the area was devastated by a 6.6 level earthquake that toppled the mud brick buildings of the city.  28,000 people died and 30,000 were injured, equaling about half the population. 

Rayen Citadel

Countries from all over the world, including the US, came to help the rescue and recovery effort.  I remember that, for a brief time, relations between the Iranian government, which has asked the world for help, and the U.S. government thawed slightly, but, unfortunately, that did not last.  Today, the city is mostly rebuilt, but this photo shows one building still standing at it’s earthquake day angle.  While the building didn’t collapse, the ceilings inside did, probably killing most of the residents since the quake hit at 5 a.m. when people were still sleeping.
If you are coming to Iran and Bam is not yet on your itinerary, I strongly suggest adding it.  You will be happy you did.

soldiers' quarrters and government palace at sunset

mountains near Bam