Sunday, October 15, 2017

The colonial city of Quito in the midst of the high Andes

panorama of Quito
Quito is over 9000 feet above sea level, set in a volcanic set of valleys in the midst of the high Andes.  The city is divided by deep gorges between rivers of solid lava that once flowed from the many volcanoes surrounding the city.  Cotopaxi, which I was able to climb to the 16,200 foot level 2 years ago when it wasn't erupting, is once again very active.
Cotopaxi in the mist
The Spanish and the Incas fought over Quito for centuries.  The old colonial center shows who ultimately won, though the descendants of the Incas and other mountain people dominate the population today.
Casa Gangotena
We stayed at a superb hotel, the Casa Gangotena, right in the heart of Quito historic center.  It was once a huge palace, turned into what the management told us is the 6th best hotel in the world.  I would agree with them--it is a treasure with beautiful service.
Roses ready to pack for shipping
We spent a day in the Andean valleys outside of Quito.  Ecuador is one of the largest exporters of roses in the world.  Cultivating and exporting roses is ahead of tourism in contributing to Ecuador's economy.  So, we visited one of the rose plantations, 10,000 feet high.  This plantation employs 80 people, growing, harvesting, packing and shipping roses all over the world.  They plant roses based on what their customers want.  Asians want very long-stemmed roses; Americans do with shorter stems.  This dictates how the plants are pruned and harvested.  I talked to one of the women packing the roses who said she loves her job. It is hard work, in a huge, cold shed. 
worker packing roses
Once packed, the roses move either to the airport for air shipment around the world or to a cold room where they can be kept up to 5 days.  The older roses are sold on the streets on Ecuadorean cities, which explains why the hotels have mountains of beautiful roses filling their bedrooms and public spaces.
Unfortunately, Cotopaxi, the active volcano, was shrouded in clouds the day we were there.  It was rainy and chilly.  But, we enjoyed a walk through the nature reserve near Cotopaxi.  Even though we were at 13,000 feet, we were walking through a pine forest and vegetation and grasses up to our waists.  Very different from the alpine plants we find at 13,000 feet in Colorado.  Off to one side was a cliff falling into a very deep gorge, another show of the lava blasts that came from Cotopaxi.
walking in Cotopaxi National Park at 13,000 feet
We wandered through a busy market where most of the local people shop for their food and goods.  I was struck by the number of pigs' heads and feet that were available.  Farmers in the area raise cattle, pigs, chickens and root crops as well as roses and some grains.
Ecuador is poor.  The government has been rife with corruption.  Everyone hopes the new president will begin to deal with that, but no one is overly optimistic.  I talked to one person about health care and education.  The government provides universal health care, but it is of low quality and very slow to access unless you have an emergency.  Those who can afford to go to the private clinics do so, but this person told me her father had a medical emergency that cost $1000 in the private clinic, so her family had to borrow money to pay for his care. 
pig's head for sale in market

spectacular gold altar in historic church


women sitting outside church



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