Thursday, September 21, 2017

The fascinating Galapagos--2nd time around

Blue Boobie chick, covered with burrs from the bushes nearby
We arrived in the Galapagos Sunday for our second visit, this time in winter, and with a group.  Our last visit was in June 2015, so a different season entirely.  Birds were mating; babies were hatching; the weather was hot and the water, for snorkeling, warm.
blue footed boobies in habit Floreana

In late September, the weather is cooler, much nicer for our hikes on the islands, but the water is 10 degrees colder, making snorkeling a bit shivery.  Thank goodness our boat (the same one as last time, the 16 passenger Majestic) has long wetsuits to loan us for this season.
giant marine turtle in the waves at Floreana
At this time of year, there are hundreds of marine turtles swimming in the water close to shore or feeding on the rocks just off the rocky promontories of the islands.  We have seen more turtles in 2 days, by far, than we saw in our 2 weeks in the Galapagos before.  One advantage of this time of year.
While the bird life is less abundant on the islands, there are still nesting pairs and babies.  Yesterday morning, on Espaniola Island, we watched a Galapagos Hawk snag a baby Nasca boobie, all fluffy white, kill it and feed it to its own young.  We saw albatrosses, which mate for life, nuzzling each other on the sand along with other albatrosses sitting on nests on the ground.  While one incubates the egg (they lay only 1), the other is out at sea searching for food.  If one of the pair dies before the egg hatches, the sitting mate will abandon the egg in order to feed him or herself and survive.  We saw one abandoned egg, about the size of fist.
Our snorkel today was particularly chilly, but really fun because of 3 sea lions who wanted to play with us near a high cliff.  They swam under and by us, bumping us in hopes we would chase them.  One grabbed our Zodiac with her flipper and kept trying to push it away from us.  They leaped out of the water showing us their skills and skimmed alongside us.  Sea lions are about the same size as seals, but they have external ears, which seals do no have.
sea lion heading to the ocean

Our first day here, we spent the day at Floreana Island, snorkeling twice in the cold water.  The reward was watching huge marine turtles swim just below us along with beautifully colored fish in large schools.   Several people saw a large shark that quickly swam off when he saw them approaching.
young sea lion playing in the waves
Floreana is a nesting area for the marine turtles, as are most of the beaches on these islands.  We could see the large holes the females had dug before depositing 80 to 100 eggs.  In 2 months, the eggs hatch and the babies scramble out of the sand nest, heading for the water.  They try to go at night, but even a dark cloud blocking the sun can make them think it’s time to make a break.  This attracts hundreds of birds eager to feast on these tiny creatures.  Ultimately, only about 5% of them survive their frantic rush to the sea and the months afterward until they gain enough size to be safe.

Marine turtles can live up to 150 years.  I think at least some of the ones we saw today on Espaniola were awaiting nightfall to climb up the dunes and lay their eggs.  Others were enjoying the swim in shallow water where they could feed on the algae that covers the rocks.
Today, we're in Puerto Ayora, the main town on Santa Cruz Island, so I have internet access, but the next post will probably be in about 5 days, when we are once again back in range.

our boat, the 16 passenger Majestic

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