Cross country skiing in gorgeous Yellowstone

the Firehole River below the Kepler Cascades

This morning, we waited until the temperature had moved from -10 F to +5 F and then ventured forth for what was for us a long ski trip to see the Lone Star Geyser, about 4 1/2 miles from the Snow Lodge at Old Faithful, where we're staying for our 6 days in Yellowstone.

sunlight hitting the Firehole River

Since we can maneuver our skis uphill, but not so well going down, we chose the snowpacked road to the Kepler Cascades because it is a relatively gentle climb, which meant a less menacing descent, to these pretty falls and on to the trail leading to the geyser.  The Firehole River, warm even in deep winter, fuels the Cascades, which flow rapidly over a substantial rockfall.  The banks of the river, though, are covered with several feet of snow and ice.  The sun doesn't hit the falls at this time of year, so my photos were dismal.

Just past the Kepler Cascades is a snowpacked (thank goodness) trail that continues to rise gently for another 2 miles or so, along the Firehole River, which is dark against the snow covering the trees and meadows.  Even though the trail is gentle and partly packed, we were tired after our 2 mile climb to the trailhead, but the lure of an isolated geyser kept us going.  Finally, we were able to get into the really fun rhythm of cross country skiing, where you step and glide, helped along by your long poles.

Don with Lone Star Geyser in background

Lone Star Geyser in full eruption

The Lone Star Geyser erupts about every 3 hours.  We were very lucky to reach the geyser just as it began erupting.  The first attempt was more like spitting hot water, but after about 15 minutes, we heard the gurgling of boiling water near the surface, which preceded 20 minutes of 20 foot spouts of water shooting up from the geyser.  Seeing this in the midst of a snow meadow is pretty exciting and just so beautiful.

bison in the distance as we limped into the Snow Lodge

Going back down to Old Faithful, a little over 4 miles, took us about 2 hours.  We had planned to be back for a late lunch, but decided to keep skiing to the geyser instead.  Fortunately some gorp and chocolate maintained our flagging energy.  We were pretty tired when we reached the Snow Lodge 5 hours after starting, but proud of ourselves for succeeding in our novice state.