Economie, gastronomie and philosophie--observations in southern France

Chateau Campagnac, near Sarlat, dilapidated and abandoned

While France is certainly more prosperous than its neighbors, Italy and Spain, it has similar signs of economic malaise in its towns with empty shops, abandoned buildings and homes in need of repair. The tourist towns we've visited--Carcassonne, Sarlat and St. Emilion--appear to be thriving.  But, as we drove through Languedoc, Dordogne and Bordeaux, we saw grand old chateaux in various stages of decay and abandonment.  In some, families still lived in part of the manor house while the rest of the building slouches towards ruin.  Other chateaux will take millions of euros in restoration if that ever happens.  It is sad to see these gracious buildings with their vacant windows, shutters askew and doors open to the weather.

Sarlat's main square

Some of the towns we drove through have main streets and central squares devoid of commerce except, perhaps, for a restaurant or cafe.  Others, like St. Emilion, are beautifully kept, full of shopping tourists and surrounded by famous vineyards that sustain both the agricultural and tourist economies.

vineyards around St. Emilion 

Agriculture is king in this part of France.  In addition to the thousands of acres of vineyards and many wineries, farmers grow tobacco, sunflowers, wheat, corn, alfalfa and, in some places, lentils.  There are cattle, dairy cows and sheep, with a few goats, in the fields.  Right now, the grass is thick and green from the recent rains and the wildflowers--poppies, many kinds of daisies, salvia, and so many I don't know--cover the fields and hillsides.  But, farther west, in Bordeaux, the grass has already turned brown, fields of grain are either golden and ready for harvest or already harvested.  Great round bales of hay still dot the meadows of alfalfa, waiting to be picked up and stored for the winter.

roast chicken truck in outdoor market

Every town has its farmers' market a day or more a week.  Here, farmers bring their homemade cheese and ham, fresh meat and vegetables and fruits to sell to residents.  Some roast chickens or pigs in trucks specially designed for the purpose.  Others sell bread, seafood, paella, salads, cassoulets and homemade jams.  Along with their home gardens and animals, these markets provide essential livelihoods for farm families.

chickens roasting in truck

Visitors to France are usually excited about the country's reputation for excellent food.  And, yes, there is a lot of that.  Chefs take pride in making their regional specialties--cassoulet made of duck, several kinds of sausage and white beans in Languedoc, duck confit in Dordogne, anything with a wine sauce in Bordeaux, and chocolate everywhere (which is truly divine).  Not all the cuisine is wonderful, though much of it is.  Just don't expect every restaurant, even if it is well-known and pricey, to have great food.  And the service is very slow everywhere.  Patience is a virtue here!

farmers' produce market

France's unique philosophies and cultures are apparent everywhere.  Often the great grandchild (both great granddaughter or grandson) of the founding great grandparents will guide you through their families' vineyards and wineries telling you so proudly of their traditions of winemaking, their dreams for creating unique and memorable wines and the desire to keep the vineyard (often small) in the family. One owner of a small winery told us that this tradition is being disrupted as more and more vineyards and wineries are being sold to corporate farms, including Chinese companies.  He is very sad about this.

When you stroll about the towns and villages or eat out at restaurants, you see families together, including children even very late at night ((and dogs, too, as they are part of the families).  Having your family with you to visit a winery, a medieval village, a city square, a mountain resort

or just a restaurant is very important.

family at beach

There are countless small shops and businesses in the cities and villages.  We have talked to shop owners, restaurant servers and owners, vintners, guides, hotel staff and many more.  They all seem to work all the time.  But, many have also told us that the French don't like to work and won't give up their 35 hour work week.  That would seem to be for government and corporate employees because we have seen so many people working long hours to sustain their small businesses or make a little extra money.  In St. Emilion, the owner of our B & B also was the chef at his excellent restaurant next door, owned the wine shop below the B & B and had a vineyard where he and his family did most of the work.  It would seem that self-sufficiency and independence is still of great value in France.

Chateau Laffite Rothschild