Stunning Iguazu Falls

long wall of Argentine Falls

walkway over the Brazilian Falls at sunset

Even when the water is low flowing over Iguazu Falls, they are magnificent.  Winding around nearly 2 miles in a huge horseshoe, they are much longer than Niagara Falls, but are not as high and carry less water.

Brazilian Falls on day 1

You wouldn't have known that over the last few days, though.  Our first day there, the water was at normal springtime levels, which is pretty high.  The next day, we could see that the flow was significantly greater, nearly twice the volume of water.  That resulted from what must have been a large rainstorm about 500 km upstream of Iguazu about 24 hours earlier.

The power of the water tumbling over the Falls is mesmerizing.  The noise is thunderous and the mist from the pounding water soaks you through and through in seconds. 

Brazilian Falls on day 2

We took a zodiac up to the Falls our second day.  The goal of the boat driver is to get everyone thoroughly wet.  There isn't even much point in wearing a poncho because when you're nosed up under a huge volume of water, it slithers down your neck, pours through the bottom of the boat and sloshes on your seat.  It is just so much fun.  We were all shrieking with truly uncontrollable laughter.

We stayed at the Hotel das Cataratas inside the national park on the Brazilian side of the Falls.  We think it is by far the best place to stay in Iguazu--a lovely old hotel first built in the 1920's and now run by the Belmond Orient Express hotel chain.  Wonderful setting right next to the Falls, so you can just wander out and down the path to see the Brazilian falls.  Small rooms, but great service, a charming garden around a huge pool, and good food.

Argentine Falls on day 1

The Iguazu River, host to the Falls, divides Argentina and Brazil.  A little farther downstream, the Iguazu joins the Parana, forming a triangle of land that is part of Paraguay.  The Falls, however, are only between Brazil and Argentina.

Argentine Falls on day 2

On the Argentine side, the Falls are also incredible.  You can walk on pathways and bridges out over the Falls and the river.  There used to be a raised pathway across the river to one of the most spectacular sections of the Falls, the Devil's Throat, which we have enjoyed in the past.  But, last June, torrential rains raised the level of the Iguazu River about 12 feet and washed out the walkway.  While Argentina is rebuilding the walkway, it is far from complete.  Nonetheless, we loved the roar and might of the Argentine Falls.

We also visited Itaipu Dam, the second largest hydroelectric dam in the world, after China's Three Gorges Dam.  It has 20 turbines, one of which is dedicated to Paraguay and provides 75% of Paraguay's power.  The rest of the turbines send power to Brazil, meeting about 15% of that country's needs.  Paraguay and Brazil jointly built and run the dam and generators.  Driving across the dam, you actually enter Paraguay, but the area is considered an international zone.

Itaipu Dam

This is a hot and humid rain forest zone with beautiful birds and many small and large creatures.  There are beautiful jaguars and pumas living in the forest, sometimes seen by hotel guests, but we, sadly, did not see them.  Maybe next time.

Swallows flit in and out of the thundering falls, which seems like a miracle.  They nest behind the falls and seem oblivious to the enormous power of the falling water as they slip behind to their nests.  There are clouds of colorful butterflies everywhere, some even landing on people's hands and arms and going along for a ride.

millipede sunning itself
 

gorgeous butterfly

and another

coati

Monitor lizard

swallows clinging to cliff by waterfall

toucan