Tear gas in Bogota makes for an exciting day!

running from tear gas in main plaza

Given the excitement of the day amidst the beauty of Bogota, I will do this blog in 2 parts, starting with the burgeoning protests and police response.  And given the impossibility of using blogger (this infuriating blog program) on my iPad, I will do separate pages of photos with each blog.

Last night, campesinos (farmers) started drifting into the city, some having walked for days to get here.  Then students decided to join them.  So, today schools were closed and university classes were cancelled in hopes of keeping the protests off the campuses.  That gave university and high school students full permission to join the growing ranks of protesters, which they did in earnest and with considerable organization (see the waves of student marchers in the photo blog).

We walked through the main plaza this morning watching the protesters gather as we began our sightseeing in Candelaria, the historic center of Bogota.  Many shops were already closed, fearing vandalism or looting from the younger marchers.  The police had already lined the plaza, protecting the government buildings and presidential palace with barricades and their presence.  The riot police were in full riot gear, armed with tear gas canisters.  They were chatting among themselves, but very watchful, though willing to talk to us with our guide interpreting.  Meanwhile the protest leaders  were blasting their messages throughout the downtown area on loudspeakers, insisting that their demands be heard and their problems solved.

There is not only great rage over the U.S./Colombia free trade agreement, but also over the rising cost of attending public universities.  Teachers participated calling for higher pay.  The poor people of Colombia believe the government is very corrupt and that they pay high taxes while the wealthy are protected from taxation.  The grievances grew when President Santos dismissed them and their protests as trivial.  No more.  The average monthly salary in Colombia is $323.  Farmers make much less.  Many farm children do not go to school beyond primary grades and many farm families have 6 or 7 children, but can't really provide them the education they need to succeed.  Even middle class families say they can't afford to send their children to university, which they value greatly.  So this is the backdrop for the protests.

Early in the afternoon, the police were ordered to clear the square.  We were several blocks above the plaza and watched, first, people walking up the street, then running as fast as they could as tear gas billowed behind them.  Later, we walked back down the street, which by now was filled with trash, the remains of a small fire, some broken glass from bashed-in windows, and police at every corner.  The plaza, which had emptied quickly after the first round of tear gas, filled again later in the day with very angry protesters.  Nonetheless, though they were loud, everyone was peaceful.  We had, however, seen riot police earlier who had been in the midst of the fray, with paint and debris covering their riot shields and uniforms, so they were prepared for more trouble.

We stood watching at the corner of the Plaza, right next to the police.  Soon the riot police moved to the Cathedral steps.  Within about 15 minutes, they were ordered to clear the square once again.  We saw them lob dozens of tear gas canisters into the Plaza.  Hundreds of people started running up our street and of course we joined them.  Meanwhile, 2 more canisters landed in the courtyard right next to us and one up the street between us and our hotel.  If you've ever experienced tear gas, you know how it burns your eyes and nose and makes you cough uncontrollably.

Our guide collapsed against a wall, so I ran back, grabbed her, and ran through the tear gas to our hotel, where we were  in through a side door

We all 3 went to our room, drank a glass of wine, watched as peace enveloped the square.  I'm sure police and protesters were all happy is was over, at least for the moment.  See photos on the next blog.