Xi'an's terracotta warriors and more

rows of terracotta warriors in pit 1

Most people traveling to China visit the ancient capital of Xi'an, the starting point of the Silk Road. This was where camel and horse caravans laden with silks and jade and other goods began their journey to the great cities of the Middle East and even Europe.  The caravans themselves did not travel the entire Silk Road, but met other traders in cities along the way, such as Dunhuang and Kashgar in the Gobi Desert, where they exchanged goods and sent their wares on their way farther west, returning with the items in high demand in Chinese markets.

horse and soldiers awaiting reconstruction

a warrior's face

The first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, started his tomb and filled it with magnificent terracota warriors to protect him in the afterlife.  Artisans worked for 37 years to complete the warriors, horses and chariots that filled his tomb.  So far 8000 have been discovered, all smashed into countless pieces and carefully reconstructed by archaeologists and modern-day artisans.  The warriors all had different faces, which makes them seem like they are living their difficult lives even today.
The first time I visited Xi'an, in 1987, there was only 1 pit that had been excavated, covered by a tin roof, with a graveled parking lot abutting the site.  Today, there are 3 pits, carefully protected in large buildings where archaeologists work daily to reconstruct all the soldiers they are finding.

terracotta horses that used to be hitched to a cart

The warriors were discovered in 1974 when a farmer was digging a well and turned up pieces of a soldier's head with his shovel.  The amount of work that has been done since then is astonishing, like so much in China.  Sometimes, that farmer sits in the gift shop signing books, a much easier way to make a living that the hard work of farming that he did for so long.

top of Xi'an's wall

Xi'an is still a walled city, though the city itself has far outgrown its original boundary to become a manufacturing center with 9 million people.  The wall is high and wide, 14 kilometers around, and perfect for a long walk or short bike ride.  You can ride a truly awful bike around the Wall in an hour, but be prepared for a seat that collapses on you or pedals that stick to your shoes and handlebars that aim only for the many holes that pock the surface of the Wall.  Nevertheless, it is one of the really fun things to do in Xi'an and lets you peer down into the backyards of lives of the citizenry.

golden Buddha in the Pagoda

The Wild Goose Pagoda is another enjoyable visit.  Again, 30 years ago during my first visit, it was decrepit with weeds surrounding it and a sagging fence.  Today, it has been restored and is the center of a lively tourist market, filled with shops selling junky souvenirs.  There is an art school and gallery that is part of the pagoda complex.  Local artists sell their art to support the pagoda, which has returned to being a Buddhist religious site, including about 50 monks who maintain the premises and offer tours.  From the top of the Pagoda, you can look out across this large city, though smog obstructs the view.

Wild Goose Pagoda

Muslim Street food stall

At night, it's fun to enjoy a dumpling dinner, a specialty of Xi'an, and walk around the wall or through the busy city streets.  Muslim Street is right by the bell tower and is packed with people enjoying the food stalls every night.

temple just inside the wall