Tuesday, May 23, 2017

A Farm Boy's Story--Yunnan Province


mountains in Yunnan Province
A young man, 29, whom I will call Mo, told us the story of his life.  He grew up, and lives today, in the mountains of Yunnan Province.  Everyone in his mountain village is a farmer and all are very poor.  Conditions for them improved after Deng Xiao Ping opened the economy to “private” enterprise.
river and farms, Yunnan Province

Before Deng, everyone worked the fields by hand and gave all their produce to the government.  They were allowed to grow a small plot of vegetables for their families, but everyone was always hungry.  Their diet consisted of a corn porridge with a few vegetables in it.  They never had meat and very little protein.  To supplement their diet, the mountain farmers ate bugs—scorpions, roaches, beetles, worms, anything they could catch that could be fried and digested.  In towns and cities today, there are still long rows of food stalls selling all kinds of critters.
mother pig with babies crossing village path
Mo grew up smaller than the rest of the village boys.  He wasn’t strong or tall enough to play sports like his friends could.  Once he asked his mother why he was so small.  She told him she thought it was because she was always hungry when she was pregnant with him and had no protein.  When he was born, she could produce no milk for him, so she fed him rice gruel, also minimally nutritious.  If she had time, she would strap him to her back and walk from village to village looking for a nursing mother who was willing to nurse Mo with her extra milk.
The village children did not have shoes.  They walked barefoot 2 hours each way from their village to the nearest school in all weather.  Mo told us that they all feared the winter because their fingers and toes split open and bled from the dryness and cold.  They walked barefoot even in the snow.  He said no one had any money at all since the government took whatever they produced, so only adults had shoes, and these were made of grass.
Mo remembers going out very early in the morning with his grandmother, around 5 a.m., when the grass on the mountainsides was lush, searching for a particular type of grass that could be used to make shoes.  They gathered the grass, which was then twisted and woven into very poor quality shoes that lasted for only a few months.
painting of weaving grass shoes, Long Museum, Shanghai

When Mo was 8 or 9, the government sent teachers from the cities to teach in the village schools.  His local teacher told the students that the school would lose face if they did not have shoes, so they could no longer attend school if they didn’t wear shoes.  When Mo told his mother, she found some old shoe soles and wrapped them with grass and rags to make shoes for him and his sister.  The shoes were very uncomfortable to children who had always gone barefoot, so the kids would walk to school barefoot, carrying their shoes, and put them on just outside the school.  Every 40 minutes, teachers took a 10 minute break.  During that break, the students would take off their painful shoes and rest their feet until the teachers returned.
When he was going to school, parents had to pay school fees for their children.  Education was very expensive at the primary, middle and high school levels and the university was out of reach for virtually all the farm families.  Mo’s sister dropped out of school after middle school because their parents had no money to continue her education.  Today, primary and middle school education is free, so all the children go at least through middle school.
yaks in a mountain meadow
Mo took the university exams and was accepted to a university.  It cost far more money than his family could afford, so he and his parents thought about it for over a month before they decided he would attend the university, far from his home.  His family had a horse, which was a near necessity for a farm family.  They used the horse to transport their produce to market and to help in the fields.  Nevertheless, Mo’s father decided to sell their horse to pay Mo’s university tuition.  That didn’t produce enough money to pay the fees, so his parents worked very hard in the fields to make the extra money required to send him to the university.  He believes this hard work is the main factor in their failing health, even though they are only 58 and 54 years old.
Mo majored in Chinese literature and taught himself English by watching American movies and reading English novels.  His English is quite good, but he says the little bit of English he learned in school was taught by teachers who couldn’t speak the language, so he has lots of trouble with pronunciation.  We thought he did pretty well.
fried insects--still a delicacy
After graduating, Mo returned to his village to support his parents.  His sister had married and moved away, so he became their sole support.  He told us that everyone wants boys because boys are responsible for taking care of their parents.  There is no social safety net—no free health care and no pensions, particularly for farmers who never had any money to save.  Health care for them is very expensive.
After 1979 and Deng Xiao Ping’s reforms, farmers were given 3 plots of land to farm for their families, about 200 square meters each.  Instead of giving all they produced to the government, they were allowed to keep 2/3 of it.  Families began to have enough food to eat, to keep a few chickens and a couple of pigs, and to sell what they didn’t need.  In Mo’s village, families needed just about all they grew because the mountain soil is not very fertile and the seeds they saved for the next year were not of the best quality.
horses in mountain rainstorm
Mo said no one over 50 in his village has any teeth.  There is still no dental care and no dental education in rural areas (and not much anywhere in China).  His father has 3 teeth and is in very bad health, so only his mother can work in their small plot where they grow vegetables.  His father stays home, too ill to work—at 58.  Mo didn’t start brushing his teeth until he was in high school, but he has most of his teeth because he tries to take care of them now.  When I asked him about seeing a dentist, he almost didn’t know what I meant.  He has never seen a dentist.
The ability to speak English opened up job opportunities for Mo.  He works in his uncle’s hotel at the reception desk, where English is sometimes required, and is a local tour guide when he has free time.  Most of his village friends do not have good jobs because they don’t speak English.  He has a girlfriend and would like to marry her, but her parents, like the parents of most girls in modern China, want him to have an apartment, a car and a good job before they approve the marriage.  Mo has an electric motor bike and rents a small room in the city so he can get to work.  He is not able to save much money because he spends almost all he makes taking care of his parents.

corn drying over doorway
If Mo’s father weren’t so ill, he could save money.  But, trips to the doctor and medications are very expensive.  One local doctor told them his father needed to go to Shanghai to a specialist for surgery, but they can’t afford to do that.  So, Mo’s savings are going to go to providing that specialized care for his father when he has saved enough money for the trip and the surgery.
Mo has never been out of Yunnan province.  He said he hates the mountains and wants to see the ocean, which he has never seen.  His dream is to visit the United States and go to Yellowstone National Park.  At 29, he is older than most young men who are getting married.  But, as long as his parents are alive, they will have to come first.  As he says, they sacrificed everything to send him to the university.  Now it is his turn to take care of them.


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