The Byzantine jewels of Palermo, Sicily

mosaic at Monreale Cathedral in the mountains above Palermo

We have seen beautiful mosaics all over the world, but some of the best are in Palermo, at the Martorana Church, the Palatine Chapel in the Norman palace and at the cathedral in Monreale, in the mountains above Palermo. These date from the Byzantine era during which artisans used gorgeous colors to cover the walls and ceilings in mosaics.  The gold shimmers still.

the angel Gabriel, Martorana Church

The tiny mosaic stones are about 1/4 inch square, so it must have taken forever for the artists to place them.  Each stone was covered with a very thin layer of glass after it was colored so that the colors would last--and they have.
The Martorana Church was first built in the late 12th century.  Over the centuries, new conquerors changed it, but fortunately did not destroy it.  The walls, ceilings and arches are covered with magnificent mosaics, all in a small space that feels warm and wonderful.

Palermo's cathedral with its many architectural styles

Palermo's cathedral is one of the most interesting mix of architectural styles in Europe because all the changes and additions are so obvious when you look at the outside of the building.  Built in the 12th century, it has had renovations and additions ever since, so has pieces ranging from Norman to Gothic to Catalan (from the 300 years Spain ruled Sicily).
lA visit to Monreale to see the cathedral and enjoy some of its gelato is one of the treats of visiting Palermo.  Norman King William II built it in the late 12th century, ostensibly to outshine the Palatine Chapel, built by his uncle Roger II.  It's mosaics are beautiful and so it its cloister with dozens of columns, each one different from all the others.  The cloister in spring is full of flowers, but not, fortunately, of tourists, so offers a peaceful retreat from the busy streets outside.

cloister at Monreale Cathedral

Sicily had a dozen conquerors over the millennia, including Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Carthaginians, Vikings, Normans, German Swabians and Spanish, all leaving their mark on the history and people of the island.  More on the magnificent Greek and Roman ruins coming up. 

golden mosaic altar at Monreale Cathedral