Bukhara--ancient and gracious Silk Road city

10th century Samanid mausoleum

Bukhara is truly one of the legendary cities of Central Asian and world history.  Once surrounded by a mud-brick city wall to protect it from waves of invaders, today only a couple of segments remain from the modernizing fervor of the Soviet period when the wall gave way to wide streets capable of carrying modern day traffic.

remnant of Bukhara city wall

Nevertheless, the city is filled with beautiful buildings and monuments and the bustle of merchants, artisans, street vendors, tourists and restaurants.  It has been a center of learning and trade for 2500 years and its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Kalon mosque and minaret

We stayed at the Salom Inn, the former home of a Jewish family in the city's old Jewish Quarter.  Today only about 600 Jews remain in Bukhara.  When the Soviet Union collapsed, most of the Uzbekistan Jews, finally able to leave a hostile Soviet empire, emigrated to the U.S. and Israel.  Uzbek families bought the Jewish homes, many of which still have the old and lovely interiors.  We had lunch in the courtyard of one of these homes, now owned by an Uzbek family, who fixed a pilav lunch for us.

preparing pilav in the courtyard

living room of Jewish home

At one time, Bukhara was the capital of the Bukhara Khanate, which lasted until 1920 and, in 1925, became part of the Soviet Republic of Uzbekistan. During its long history, it was involved in the nearly ceaseless pattern of conquest and reconquest as Persians, Mongols, Arabs and others crisscrossed Central Asia setting up new empires only to be conquered in turn by the next horde.

The Samonids left behind a lovely 10th century tomb (above).  A partially restored fortress was once the guarantor, such as it were, of the safety of Bukhara's inhabitants.

fortress wall

Beautiful mosques and madrassas dot the center of the city, now mostly restored or being restored.

12th century mosque with conical dome

One 12th century mosque has a conical dome instead of the much more common rounded domes.  There are several particularly beautiful minarets, with fine brickwork as their design, notably the Kalon Minaret.

Bukhara was a center of Sufi learning and practice.

Sufi mosque at Naqshbandi shrine

Just outside the city is a shrine to a Sufi saint, Baha al-din al-Naqshbandi, a very popular destination for Bukharans and tourists alike. Particular famous is a gnarled tree, supposedly grown from the staff of the Sufi saint.  If you walk around the tree 3 times, you get your wish, so the tree is surrounded by circling tourists of all religious persuasions.

ladies circling holy tree

Mir i Arab Madrassa

Also outside of Bukhara is the last khan's summer palace, modeled after both Czarist and French palaces, with a large and beautiful garden.  Inside, you can see the former splendor.  This, too, is slowly being restored.

White Hall reception room of Summer Palace

Everywhere are artisans painting miniatures of Bukhara's history, embroidering fabric for suzanis, weaving silk and wool carpets, with women everywhere hawking these wares. Some of the goods are quite beautiful while others are clearly machine made.

miniature artist at work